Houses in Cabo Polonio
Cabo Polonio is a fishing village on a rocky point along the coast of Rocha, surrounded by dunes and located within a protected area. There are no streets for cars and no connection to the power grid: you get there by off-road trucks or on foot, and at night the brightest light is the one from the lighthouse.
Getting there
Private vehicles are not allowed in. Access is through Puerta del Polonio, on Ruta 10, where there's parking and where the 4x4 trucks leave to cross the dunes to the village. The trip is about 7 km. Fares and schedules change depending on the season, so it's best to check them before you go.
Montevideo is about 260 km away. You can go by car or by intercity bus lines that stop at Puerta del Polonio. It's a good idea to confirm routes and schedules with the bus companies.
You can also get there on foot across the dunes or along the beach. Plan on a couple of hours, bring water, and avoid the sunniest hours of the day.
Beaches
The cape divides the coastline into two beaches:
- Playa Sur (La Ensenada): a more sheltered bay, where the fishermen's boats are kept.
- Playa Norte (La Calavera): open and long, with bigger waves. It continues north toward Barra de Valizas.
There are no boardwalks or buildings on the sand, just dunes and rocks. The sea can be rough, so it's a good idea to check whether lifeguards are on duty during the season.
Things to do
- Climb the lighthouse, which has been operating since the late 19th century and offers views of the whole cape and the islands offshore.
- See the sea lion colony on the rocks next to the lighthouse, keeping your distance and following the park's guidelines.
- Watch southern right whales from the shore in winter and spring.
- Walk through the dunes and along the north beach toward Barra de Valizas.
- Gaze at the night sky, which has almost no light pollution because the village isn't connected to the power grid.
Cabo Polonio is part of Parque Nacional Cabo Polonio. There are rules about getting around, waste, and wildlife that you should follow.
Food and drink
The food reflects the fishing village, with fresh fish dishes and fried fare. Seaweed fritters are also typical along the coast of Rocha. More places open during high season than in winter, so it's a good idea to find out what's open before going outside of summer.
Best time to go
In summer, especially in January, the village is livelier and almost all services are open. There are also more people.
From fall to spring it's quieter. Winter and spring are the time to see southern right whales from the shore. Since the village has no power grid and many services are seasonal, outside of summer it's best to confirm your lodging and the basics before you travel.